Wild rabbits spend their lives as part of a large group, inhabiting a structure known as a warren. Whilst most owners house a pair of rabbits, keeping three or four are also popular options. Be sure to purchase both a hutch and a run that are large enough, or else you will have to obtain multiple hutches to create enough space. As well as nice, safe hutch to shelter and sleep in, the space that you provide for your rabbits should include a well-sized outside area for them to run around in.
Wild rabbits usually have a lot of space for wandering, and although their grass requirements are less than that of their wild counterparts, your pets will still appreciate adequate space in which to stretch their legs. Remove anything dangerous from the room, and add cardboard boxes to hide in. Add some hay, and perhaps some vegetables. Associating one another with a tasty treat often helps rabbits to bond more quickly. Then, place both rabbits inside the room. Sit on the floor with them to supervise.
Your rabbits will likely start to sniff each other and touch noses. They may begin circling one another. One rabbit will probably start mounting the other, to assert dominance. Let your rabbits investigate each other for around 10 minutes, then separate them again. Do this every day, slowly increasing the time, until they can be around each other for an hour or more. Bonding is unlikely to happen straight away.
Rarely, two rabbits usually a doe and a buck will fall in love at first sight. When your rabbits feel comfortable together, their body language will change. They may ignore each other entirely while they do this, which is a good sign.
The final stage of bonding is grooming each other. This is a sure sign that your two rabbits will become lifelong friends. You should never separate a pair of bonded rabbits, unless they fight or need urgent medical assistance. Rabbits in the wild never live alone. Usually, around individuals live together in a close group. Large warrens can be home to individuals or more, living nearby. However, it is harder to introduce a new rabbit to a bonded pair than to introduce two single rabbits.
In the wild, rabbit groups usually consist of a dominant male rabbit and several submissive females. So, if you have a bonded doe and buck, consider getting another doe. Introduce them slowly, using the same techniques detailed above. The bonded rabbit of the same sex will show signs of jealousy. She may be aggressive toward the new rabbit and try to establish dominance.
Let them work it out for themselves, but separate them if they fight. Take it slowly. Wait at least two months after the new rabbit is spayed or neutered before beginning introductions.
Let them get used to one another for short periods each day until they bond. This can occur if you introduce them gradually and do everything right. It may take two dominant rabbits a long time to figure this out. If your rabbits are fighting, however, you will need to intervene. Real fighting can be recognized by:. If your rabbits are fighting, try to distract them. One way to do this is with a spray bottle of water. Rabbits dislike being sprayed with water.
They will stop fighting, and will likely start grooming themselves. This may be enough to prevent them from fighting again. If they do start to fight again, try the water one more time. Try introducing them again tomorrow. On average, it takes 1 to 3 weeks of daily face time for two rabbits to become bonded. However, if both rabbits have naturally dominant personalities, it can take much longer. If they fight every time they meet, give them a few weeks apart before trying again.
Got each one at different times, love them both but they have gotten into fighting when first put together so they have conjoined pens but sometimes I get conflicting feeling that they might get along. There pens are in the back bedroom but I let each one out for couple of hours each night to stretch their legs.
Any thoughts on this? I love them both and would love to see them get along but happy just the same if they just are not meant to be bonded. Thanks for any comments you may have. Of course, more time in the bigger space, the better.
Still, you never know. It seemed to go easier after the initial 3. I liken it to people living in a house. You just need enough space for an extra bedroom and maybe a little extra living space, but most amenities etc will be shared. I think that probably works up until a certain point, maybe 5 or so, and then you would need to add extra full space for additional buns after that.
I hope that makes sense. That was from us, but was premature as the login was not working at that time. This topic has 13sd replies, 5 voices, and was last updated 4 years, 2 months ago by Azerane.
BrokenBlue Participant. Hi, sorry if this is in the wrong place. Not really sure where it should go. I have a few questions. When adding a new bunny to an existing group how would bonding differ from bonding 2 rabbits? Does anybody on here keep more than 2 rabbits together who could share their experience? Mikey Participant. Serenity Participant.
Bonding always has to happen unless you adopt an already bonded group I got each bun at different times, but from the same store. Bianca Participant. Thanks everyone The actual floor space is 5ft by 10ft but there are lots of shelves and stuff so the total floor space is probably quite a bit more. Azerane Moderator. You must be logged in to reply to this topic. Keep me signed in. Log In. About Us. Contact Us. Wholesale Inquiry. Site Map. House Rabbit Store. Store Login.
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